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We’ve been talking a lot about crabgrass control, mole control and snow mold of late. So, what do all three of these things have in common? That’s OK, I can wait while you think about it . . . Give up? The answer is; all three cause damage to your lawn and all three may require some repair work.
Choose the right time:
Spring will be here before we know it and that’s really the best time to do re-seeding work. Fall isn’t bad either, but we’ve been having hotter, drier fall weather, followed by colder, wetter winters which are not ideal for getting new grass established, hardy and ready for harsher conditions. Spring is generally wetter and milder, which aids in the re-seeding process.
Choose the right seed:
So, what does proper re-seeding encompass? There are some pretty simple, but absolutely crucial steps to follow to get the best bang for your buck and labor. Quality grass seed is expensive, anywhere from $5.00 per pound and up, depending on the type of seed and where you perchance it. Do not scrimp on the grass seed! You are going to be putting time and effort into this process (or paying someone else to do it). It makes little sense to go cheap on the grass seed.
RTF (rhizomatous tall fescue) grass seed has become very popular, because it is very hardy, “self-repairing” due to the rhizomes, which mean it spreads horizontally as well as by roots. It requires less water, tolerates more heavy usage and is more disease and insect resistant. It is expensive, but again, consider your total investment.
Account for Shade & Sun:
Once you’ve selected your seed, being sure it’s the right type for your landscape, shade, full sun or sun/shade mix, determine how much you will need. The bag should tell you how much is needed for over-seeding and how much for re-seeding based on the square footage of the area(s) being done. Square footage is determined by measuring the length and the width of the area, then multiply the two. Over-seeding is for thinned areas, re-seeding for bare areas. And always buy extra seed for touch ups.
Prepare the soil:
Now you’re ready to start. It is critical that the grass seed is in contact with soil. Do not just toss it out over moss or thatch. You will see poor germination and worse establishment. You will have to thatch areas where needed to get down to the soil. Once you’re sure the seed will contact soil, also be sure to loosen the soil to help the roots get established. Top dressing the seed, covering it with ¼ to ½ inch of good topsoil is also a good idea. It will speed up the germination process. Another option is to rent a grass seeding machine similar to an aerator, makes everything easier and eliminates topdressing.
Water the new seed:
After you’ve done all this hard work, don’t waste it. You must not let the re-seeded areas dry out! Water twice or even three times a day as needed to ensure the soil stays moist (unless we get rain of course). Do this and you should see new grass in 7-10 days. Wait at least two to three weeks after germination before mowing. Once you start mowing, the grass will really stat to fill in.
We do not provide re-seeding services, but are happy to answer questions about the process and help in any way we can.
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